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Gwalior Hotel. Gwalior. - Arrived here yesterday and leave tomorrow, probably for Ch[h]atarpur as guests of the Rajah, a 'great reader of Marie Corelli and Herbert Spencer'; hope to see a city near the capital where there are 'some fine Hindu temples' [Khajuraho?]. They are waiting from a letter from the Rajah and may not go at all; will go straight to Benares if so, then on to Gaya and Calcutta. They went up to the Fort this morning on an elephant; it is 'best to take a sea-sick remedy before starting', and he walked most of the way back. They saw some fine temples and a palace; the 'rock is rather like Orvieto, only larger' and the surrounding countryside is 'more beautiful' than North India usually seems to be. Tomorrow, they will be given a tour of the Maharaja's palace by his finance minister Sultan Ahmed Khan, a Muslim alumnus of Christ's Cambridge, who is married to an English lady. They have just heard from the Rajah of Chatarpur that he can be their host, so expects to reach Benares about Monday or Tuesday next week. Had a 'cheerful letter from Bessie' in the Netherlands by the last mail; the Bottomleys are 'comfortably settled in the Shiffolds'. Does not know when Bessie will go north again, but supposes she will fetch Julian back before long. Has been reading the [Robert Louis] Stevenson letters which his mother gave him; glad he kept them till now; thinks he likes the letters better than any of Stevenson's books. They make him want to be in England or on the Mediterranean 'a little too much', though he is having a 'splendid time' and is glad he came, since he 'certainly shall never come here again'. Still possible he may have a few weeks in Japan before his return, in which case they [he and Goldsworthy Lowes Dickinson] would only stop a few days in China, at Hong Kong then Shanghai. Hopes the food at the Rajah's will be good, as they 'have not had very pleasant experience of Indian dinners so far'; he was quite ill after a dinner in Delhi. Sends love to his father and Julian; will write next mail from Benares.

Hotel Cecil, Agra - This is their second day here; will go on to Gwalior on Monday. Had a 'very interesting 5 days at Delhi', and spent a night at Muttra [Mathura], which was the most 'purely Indian' town they have yet seen, on the way; it is 'full of monkeys, and Brahmins bathing in the river, and 'no sign of English anywhere' though there are several regiments stationed nearby. The river and ghats are 'very beautiful'; though they saw 'no fine temples' there, there was a famous old Hindu temple, sacred to Krishna, at nearby Brindaban [Vrindavan], which was the finest he has yet seen. They are having a very pleasant time here; they saw the Taj [Mahal] in the moonlight yesterday, which was more beautiful than he could imagine. Today they saw the buildings in the fort; the Pearl mosque is a 'masterpiece', but the others 'rather disappointing in detail', though the 'general effect is marvellous'. They will visit Fatehpore Sikri at the weekend with William Archer, and [Arthur] Moore, the "Times" correspondent in Persia, whom they have made friends with here. Moore is a liberal, and writes 'telegrams on Persian affairs from the Persian constitutionalist point of view that the "Times" prints and 'then write leading-articles to explain away'. Saw I'timad-ud-Daulah [Ghiyas Beg]'s tomb this afternoon, which is 'a most exquisite building'; [originally] enclosing a photograph of an interior chamber, as well as a view of the Taj. Cannot remember whether his father has been to Agra. After Gwalior, they hope to go to Chhatapur as the guest of the Maharaja, then to Benares, Patna, and should be at Calcutta by Christmas. [He and Dickinson] have not yet decided whether they have time to go to Burma; Forster is with them now, but will leave them at Chhatapur. They cannot go to Jaipur as there is a bad outbreak of plague there, so have 'reluctantly decided' to miss Udaipur and Rajputana completely. Has been keeping well, except for a slight touch of fever at Lahore which the doctor 'stupidly mistook for German measles'; Dickinson is also well. Very glad the ceremony at Stratford 'went off so pleasantly'; returns the cutting of the speech made by his father; if he has another copy, he could send this to Bessie to keep. Has had 'very cheerful letters from her', and expects she is now back from the Netherlands; glad that Julian is 'so well and happy', and hopes he will not 'become too noisy'.

Hotel de Paris, Benares. - Found his father's letter here when they arrived yesterday, after almost two weeks at Chhatapur as the guests of the Maharajah, a 'very charming and cultivated man'. Stayed longer than planned since [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson was unwell for a few days due to 'indifferent food'. Has been very interesting to observe the governance of a 'native state' which the Maharajah left entirely to the Diwan or chief minister, a Brahmin and a 'very enlightened and able man' who is engaged in reform; they befriended him and the rajah's private secretary who was also chief judge, 'a Moslem and a very fine type, from the Punjab' [M. Fazal i Haq?]. Unlike the Punjabi Muslims he had met, he wishes there could be friendship between Muslims and Hindus and believes it would be possible if both sides made 'certain concessions'.

They made several expeditions to see temples and palaces while there, and found the countryside more beautiful than anything else they have seen since leaving Bombay, so it perhaps does not matter that they did not as first planned go to Jaipur and Udaipur. Tomorrow they will 'go to see the pilgrims bathing and praying on the Ghats'; [originally] enclosing a photograph of one of the main ghats; the ruined palace in the foreground collapsed about twenty years ago; thinks the other photograph looks 'Italian'. Expects his father saw Benares when he was in India. They will probably go to Goya for two nights on 18 December, then on to Calcutta for a couple of weeks or more before going south to Madras; they may pay a short visit to Darjeeling. They have now given up the plan of going to Burma, for which there is not sufficient time. Bessie seems to have been happy in the Netherlands; expects she will have fetched Julian from Wallington by now; very glad to have had 'such good accounts of him' from her and his parents. Is writing with a champak [flower] bud on his table, whose 'odour perfades [sic] the room, and is worthy of its lyrical fame'.

With printed message 'I'll not confer with sorrow till to-morrow; But Joy shall have her way This very day'. No message written in by hand. Image of cottage, by Frederick Leighton [sic]. This item may not be from Vishwanath Singh, or it could have originally contained the following item.

The Guest House [the Rest House crossed through], Chhatapur. - They came here on Wednesday and intended to leave today, but are delaying their departure for a few days since [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson has been 'rather ill'. His digestion has suffered from the 'bad food [they] get in most places'; Robert however is well and has 'learnt what agrees' with him; hears the food will be better in Bengal. Chhatarpur is a 'delightful place', with the most beautiful countryside he has so far seen in India. Their host the Maharajah is a 'charming man, interested chiefly in philosophy and literature'; they have 'long talks' every afternoon he has 'a good deal of shrewdness, but has muddled his head rather by reading too much bad European philosophy'. His state is 'very well governed' by his ministers, though he seems little interested in it himself. On Wednesday they are going in his moto car to see some famous Hindu and Jain temples thirty miles away [at Khajuraho]. Will go to Benares on Friday or Saturday if Dickinson is well enough. Went out several miles into the jungle on an elephant yesterday with the Chief Justice, also the Maharaja's secretary; they saw no wild beasts, though there are 'often tigers and panthers about'; the jungle was 'very beautiful, not at all thick', and the elephant was 'rather less jolty than the Gwalior one' though he still finds travel by that mean 'inconceivably uncomfortable'. Will not get the mail from England before this letter needs to be sent; does not have a pen, since they left most of their luggage at the station, so is writing in pencil as all the pens here are bad. Will write next week from Benares or Gaya; supposes Bessie will have been to Wallington to collect Julian by the time his mother gets this; she seems to be having a good time in Holland.

Chhatarpur, Bundlekhand, C. I. - Thanks Trevelyan for his letter of 6 February; is 'greatly flattered' by the memories [of Trevelyan's visit with Lowes Dickinson and E. M. Forster in 1913] which it brings back 'with their original charm and sweetness', though he wonders whether it would be possible to relive that time. Glad that Trevelyan has 'introduced into English Poetry those scenes wh[ich] are dearly cherished in every Hindu heart' [a reference to Trevelyan's verse drama about Krishna, "The Pearl Tree"?]; if he ever comes again to India the Maharaja will have the play translated into Hindi and acted for him. Read Dickinson's "Magic Flute" with 'unabated interest': thinks it very characteristic of Dickinson, and well depicting 'the modern idea of truth', while Dickinson's 'pacifist views have come in very appropriately in that Drama'. Trevelyan's letter hinted that Forster intended to return to India, and the Maharaja 'naturally thought' he would come to him: he counts 'you people to be of my dear Tutor Sir Theodore [Morison]'s circle'. However, he learns with 'great surprise' that Forster has accepted a position at Dewas; does 'not know how he got there!'. Sure that Trevelyan, if Forster had consulted him, would have advised him to come to Chhatarpur; the Maharaja wanted Forster to 'correct the mistake' and come to be his 'companion', but he has refused. The Maharaja is 'greatly in need of a loyal [emphasised] & sympathetic companion of literary tastes - & practical experience of the World' but does 'not know how to find one!'.

Asks where 'our friend' Bertrand Russell is: his Christmas card was returned. Asks if Trevelyan ever sees Theodore Morison, or his friend T[homas] W[alker] Arnold; asks what Arnold's address is nowadays. Mr Haq is still at Chhatarpur, but Mr Mina has 'reverted to his British India service' and is working in an U[ttar] P[radesh?] D district. Received Trevelyan's Christmas card with the 'nice & promising attempt of the young Painter [Julian]'; hopes he will be like his father.

West Hackhurst. - Asks if he might stop two nights. Is glad Bob likes the "H. & G." ["Alexandria: A History and Guide"]; will remember his 'correction of the Bolbitinic outlet of the Nile' though surprised Bob seems to have 'sailed by the Nine Books of the Enneads". Has had no Christmas greeting from Chhatarpur, and knows why.

A note in R. C. Trevelyan's hand above the poem records that this was written after Trevelyan's account of his visit to the Maharajah of Chhatarpur in 1912, and published only in the "Basilikon" [?], King's Coll. May Week 1914. The translation from Hungarian is said to be by Békássy's mother. There is a transcription of Trevelyan's note in another hand on the back.

Welcombe, Stratford on Avon. - Bessy read them Robert's account of the Maharajah at breakfast, and Sir George received the letter from Benares [Varanasi]; he himself was there, but probably only between trains; Warren Hastings was there longer and liked it less. Has a vague recollection of a ghaut [ghat], a little like Robert's postcards. That was fifty years ago and much has changed; today is Gladstone's birthday, and it says much about the man that he is remembered 'half a generation after his death'. Sorry that [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson was so ill; hopes he is 'permanently right again' now. In the future, Robert will be glad to have got to know a 'great native household' [that of the Maharajah of Chhatapur], rather than going to Burma; he himself prefers his 'thorough, and rather dearly-earned knowledge of Calcutta' than to have seen more, 'even more romantic objects'. Their journey south on Friday was 'arduous' but went well; Julian behaved perfectly and enjoyed it very much. Is reading the later volume of Gibbon, and more or less agrees with Robert that 'they are a stately bridge between the ancient and the modern world'; keeps thinking what a 'bright man of the world' Gibbon was.

Welcombe, Stratford on Avon. - [The household of the Maharajah of Chhatapur] is a 'most romantic life to have witnessed, and become domesticated in'. Has been reading Kipling, and been increasingly 'impressed by the brutality of his attitude about the Bengalees' and also the 'genius' which turns 'such a perverted and artificial view' into such good reading. Bessy has just returned, and they have had a visit from Jan Hubrecht and his wife; Jan is 'so able all round' and has certainly 'matured'; he and his wife seem very happy. George has been here for a while and they have discussed their respective books; they seem designed 'to criticise each other in exactly the points that are specially needed'. Aunt Annie [Philips] is here, and they are a 'very jolly party'.

Hotel Cecil, Agra, India. - Gratified that Edward wants his Dirge for the anthology [the first Georgian Poetry]; Bessie has sent on Edward's letter, and says she has written to him about it; quotes [Horace Odes 1.1] in Latin. Glad that poem has been chosen, which he thinks the best in the book [The Bride of Dionysus]; Edward can do as he thinks best about the italicised 'that' in the last verse. Is here with [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson and [E.M] Forster; they went to the Taj [Mahal] last night, just after sunset, and found it much better than they expected, 'really one of the perfectly beautiful things in the world'. There are 'wonderful things in India, and the people are always a delight to watch', but so far it 'seems to be uglier than any country [Bob] has yet seen'; had not understood before how beautiful Italy was. However, the 'evening is more beautiful than in Europe, and transfigures even the Punjab'; Agra is better, with gardens and the river. They have been to Ajanta and seen the Buddhist frescoes which 'are first-rate' though in bad condition; the Hindu temples and sculptures are 'usually' ugly, but they have not seen the best yet. Will probably part company with Forster in a few weeks and go on to Benares and Calcutta, while he stays in this region; Forster will go to Calcutta later and home in spring, while Bob and Dickinson hope to reach Java in early March, perhaps travelling via Burma; Bob hopes to spend April in China then return home in May by rail. They met W[illiam] Archer recently, and hope to see him again tomorrow when they are going with him in a motor car to Fatehpur Sikri . Bob has 'had one native dinner, and was ill the next day with a temperature of 101 [Fahrenheit]'. They are going to stay with a Maharaja next week, '40 miles from any railway, who has a ruined town with twenty or thirty temples in it, one of them to the 64 female demons'; he [the Maharaja of Chhatarpur] is 'a great talker, and admirer of Herbert Spencer'; they hope he keeps elephants; Bob has seen none yet.

The Shiffolds, Holmbury St. Mary, Dorking. - Strange that Macaulay 'did not care for [Theocritus'] Idyll XIV, which seems 'as good in its way as the fifteenth' to Robert. Looks forward to going through Macaulay's notes on Theocritus when he is at Wallington. Is about to walk to Abinger to see Forster; Dickinson, who was with Robert and Forster at Chattarpur twelve years ago; also 'a young man who is now the Maharajah's secretary [J. R. Ackerley], home on holiday'. So they will have to 'send the Maharajah a round-robin'.

Julian is home, looking well and 'fortunately not noticeably taller than last holidays'. They started reading Hamlet together this morning. Sends love to his mother.

Chhatarpur. - Thanks Trevelyan for his 'kind letter of the 10th'; it is only because of Trevelyan's own 'kind nature and good-heartedness' that he makes 'so much of what little I did'. In turn, thanks Trevelyan for the present of his brother [George]'s Garibaldi and the Thousand.

Very glad to hear that Dickinson is now 'quite fit to go on with his long & distant journey'. Their best wishes go with both Trevelyan and Dickinson, and Forster, and they all hope they will 'fully enjoy' their travels. 'You know that H. H. [the Maharaja] likes & loves nothing better in the world than the society of cultured English gentlemen. I can say that from my personal experiences of the last 19 years that I have been with him. He missed your company very much - in fact he was very much depressed after you left'. It was not until 'long after that the loneliness & monotony of his life was somewhat relieved by a visit from Miss Cohen and her brother' but they could only stay a couple of days and left for Gwalior. Showed Trevelyan's letter to the Maharaja, who 'was very much impressed with what you said therein about your visit to Chhatarpur & the hospitality of its ruler'; the Maharaja has received Trevelyan's letter to him 'from the jungles of Salim' and will reply soon. He 'read it and re-read it in my presence and was much impressed. He was also very glad to hear that you met Sir Theodore [Morison], whom he he is going to see at Patna or Lucknow'. The 'Hon. A. G. G. [Assistant Governor General?] is due at Chhatarpur om his official tour about 20 Feb., and the Maharaja cannot fix a definite date [to see Morison] until that tour is over.

Is glad to hear that Nanhu Mal was useful to them at Benares. Notes that Bob finds 'the Persian alphabet very troublesome', but thinks if he takes it seriously he 'won't find it so unmanageable in the long run': hopes he will 'soon get over the difficulty' so that soon Haq will 'have the pleasure to correspond with you in Persian language & quote Persian poets'. Had a 'very kind letter from Mr Forster' recently, who seems to have 'very pleasant recollections' of his visit to Chhatarpur'.

Yesterday was a public holiday [] and the Maharaja 'held a dunbar last night to offer thanks to the Almighty on this happy occasion'. The Maharaja has 'entered into a singular correspondence with Dr. Carpenter [perhaps Edward Carpenter?] & has received many of his books of late'; has also had Dickinson and Forster's books 'direct from England' and is 'much interested in all these books': Haq always finds him with one in his hand. The Diwan told Haq recently that he had received [Trevelyan's father's] Life of Macaulay from Trevelyan.

Wonders if Trevelyan [and his friends?] 'can induce H. H. to visit England - It is sure to do him much good from every point of view'; he himself is 'only his servant & my solicitations in this respect can therefore be of very little avail'.

Asks to be remembered to Mr Dickinson.

King's Coll. Cambridge [headed notepaper]. - Good to hear from her, and to get good news, 'which is an unusual luxury in these days'. Met Julian in a train - 'we are rather clever at meeting in public conveyances - who told him about Bessie's 'improved domesticities'. Is also very glad about the car. Would like to visit later in the month, either to stay the night or for lunch.

'Chhatarpur's letter and card are charming [from the Maharaja to Bob, sent for him to see?]'; had meant to enclose them, but 'they are not lost but gone behind - i.e. left at Cambridge'. Will post them as soon as he returns. Like Bob, has been 'tearing up letters, and would they were only to myself!'. Has to 'go through what ladies wrote to ladies about ladies in the sixties, seventies, eighties, and nineties in the last century. Really extraordinary! Miss Marianne Thornton leads', then there is his aunt Laura, and later his mother; they are mainly discussing their cousin Mrs Aylward, of whose second marriage they disapproved, and from whom there are also letters. As a 'cross current' there are all the letters written by his grandmother to his mother. The twelve boxes with which he was 'confronted at West Hackhurst have now been reduced to three'.

Has just been to Aldeburgh, 'partly to tear up letters, partly to tend' his friend E. K. Bennett, recovering from 'duodenal trouble... What an exasperating disease, and how prevalent! If it is indeed a nervous illness it may be due to the worries of the age'. Is very well himself, and 'even bathed!'. Sends love to her and Bob.