Hotel Cecil, Agra - This is their second day here; will go on to Gwalior on Monday. Had a 'very interesting 5 days at Delhi', and spent a night at Muttra [Mathura], which was the most 'purely Indian' town they have yet seen, on the way; it is 'full of monkeys, and Brahmins bathing in the river, and 'no sign of English anywhere' though there are several regiments stationed nearby. The river and ghats are 'very beautiful'; though they saw 'no fine temples' there, there was a famous old Hindu temple, sacred to Krishna, at nearby Brindaban [Vrindavan], which was the finest he has yet seen. They are having a very pleasant time here; they saw the Taj [Mahal] in the moonlight yesterday, which was more beautiful than he could imagine. Today they saw the buildings in the fort; the Pearl mosque is a 'masterpiece', but the others 'rather disappointing in detail', though the 'general effect is marvellous'. They will visit Fatehpore Sikri at the weekend with William Archer, and [Arthur] Moore, the "Times" correspondent in Persia, whom they have made friends with here. Moore is a liberal, and writes 'telegrams on Persian affairs from the Persian constitutionalist point of view that the "Times" prints and 'then write leading-articles to explain away'. Saw I'timad-ud-Daulah [Ghiyas Beg]'s tomb this afternoon, which is 'a most exquisite building'; [originally] enclosing a photograph of an interior chamber, as well as a view of the Taj. Cannot remember whether his father has been to Agra. After Gwalior, they hope to go to Chhatapur as the guest of the Maharaja, then to Benares, Patna, and should be at Calcutta by Christmas. [He and Dickinson] have not yet decided whether they have time to go to Burma; Forster is with them now, but will leave them at Chhatapur. They cannot go to Jaipur as there is a bad outbreak of plague there, so have 'reluctantly decided' to miss Udaipur and Rajputana completely. Has been keeping well, except for a slight touch of fever at Lahore which the doctor 'stupidly mistook for German measles'; Dickinson is also well. Very glad the ceremony at Stratford 'went off so pleasantly'; returns the cutting of the speech made by his father; if he has another copy, he could send this to Bessie to keep. Has had 'very cheerful letters from her', and expects she is now back from the Netherlands; glad that Julian is 'so well and happy', and hopes he will not 'become too noisy'.
C/o the Hon. Mr. Hailey, Commissioner, Delhi. - Has occurred to him that if Trevelyan's time at Agra overlaps with his own, they could 'combine for the trip to Fatehpur Sikri. It would please him to join Trevelyan and [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson, and they would 'all save a little money by this arrangement'. Expects to reach Agra on Thursday night or Friday morning; asks Trevelyan to 'send... a line' if their dates can be made to fit.
5 Barton St (on headed notepaper for National Liberal Club, Whitehall Place, S.W.). - T. T. [Thomas Tettrell Phelps?] says that he is getting tickets for Bob and Marsh to see "His Excellency" [comic opera with libretto by W. S. Gilbert] if he can, otherwise they must trust to the 'tender mercies of his dramatic judgment'. Bob went last night to the Empire with the Sandilands [John and James?], saw 'Ivette' [Yvette Guilbert], and 'was enrolled among her vassals and servitors'. T.T. was 'not quite sufficiently magnetised', claiming 'ignorance of the language', but the rest of them could also 'not understand much of it'. [Oswald?] Sickert talked about 'buying the Empire for his friends next Saturday' for the matinee; advises Marsh to go if he can; he would himself but will have to play [rugby] football that afternoon. Has exams next Monday until Thursday, 'unlike false Sextus' [he quotes Macauley] he is in 'an agony of apprehension' that they should 'fail to be the last'. Saw MacT [Jack McTaggart] last Sunday, who thought Marsh's 'critique splendid'; Bob hopes Marsh has 'not made an enemy of Iphigeneia after all', who was not mentioned in [William?] Archer's piece in the "Pall Mall" at all.
Hotel Scapolatielli, Corpo di Cava (written on printed notepaper for the Hôtel de Londres, Gênes - crossed out). - Marsh's letter gave Bob much pleasure, since the 'stupid people at Naples' have not yet sent his first on; his address 'hints fascinating suggestions of rustic English scenery, and milk drunk and mild-maids beflirted in dairies'. Asks if Marsh is alone, or whether this letter is '"solus ad solum", as Flaubert used to write to Maxime Ducamp'. Read [William?] Archer's review of the plays produced by the Independent Theatre [Society] in the "Pall Mall Budget", and supposes it was 'in some slight degree inspired by' Marsh's; hopes this 'wonderful pale-faced black-haired [man: Lugné-Poe, see 15/322]' will still be in London when he returns at the end of the month; asks if it was Titian's portrait of Ariosto Marsh was reminded of. Has read Maeterlinck's "Intruse"; did not feel anything strongly for the writer, but would not like to have written the play: did not think the 'poetical or romantic element to which realism was totally sacrificed... was not quite good enough', that Maeterlink was 'not the right man to do it well, but that he could imaging 'a real poet doing something very wonderful in that line'. Glad Oswald [Sickert] 'has seen the last of those Beautiful Englanders' ["Beautiful Britain", published by the Werner Company]; remembers Marsh talking about Sickert's second novel a while ago and thought he had said it was finished, so asks whether this is a third. Asks whether [Stanley] Makower's book is out yet.
Marsh seems 'to have been going the round of our distinguished men pretty thoroughly'; makes Bob 'writhe with envy to read your account; would particularly like to see [Robert] Bridges, and means to make Roger [Fry], Bridges' nephew, take him one day. Has a book of Bridges' verse with him here, which is 'very readable and at times very beautiful'; Fry is 'enthusiastic' about him, and reads Bob passages aloud from "Prometheus [the Firegiver]"; Bob thinks 'a calmness and gentleness of tone and harmony about him... seems to make him a sort of painters poet'; hopes Marsh was 'not badly shown up' for his 'neglect' of Bridges' recent books. A man called [Henry Charles] Beeching lives with Bridges [he in the Rectory at Yattendon, Bridges in the manor house there; Beeching married Bridge's niece] and 'has just published a volume of milky poetry for which Roger has done a frontispiece' ["In a Garden and Other Poems"]; Roger says they quarrel with each other 'off and on in a mild chronic sort of way'. Asks whether Marsh saw Beeching.
Is living an 'ideal sort of life here'; describes his daily routine of exercise, study and meals; he eats omelettes, risotto, 'some wonderful things they call fritelli', for which he gives instructions and states his intention to continue making them in England. His work is 'just as mysterious' to himself as it is to Marsh; does not have the 'faintest idea what it is going to turn out' as; the plot is a 'puzzle' to him, the style is he knows 'vicious and unnatural as a rule' though he hopes it is good sometimes, and the important thing is to get it finished. Has the greatest difficulty finding names for his characters; his hero is called Benedict, 'an awfull name... which mercifully shortens into Bendy'. Badly wants a name for 'a sort of Jim Stephen who has not gone mad' but has achieved nothing due to 'an incorrigible laziness and want of enterprise'; he is in danger of losing his wife to the hero. Bob was just creating a character called Paul who was turning out 'without my intending it, uncommonly like you'; Marsh's letter has made him realise with 'horror' what he was doing and he may have to take Paul out. The character is engaged to a very charming girl who is like someone Bob knows. Hopes to be back in England in about three weeks; intends to 'plunge into an incredible carreer of gluttony [sic] and Pantegruelizing'.
Hotel Cecil, Agra, India. - Gratified that Edward wants his Dirge for the anthology [the first Georgian Poetry]; Bessie has sent on Edward's letter, and says she has written to him about it; quotes [Horace Odes 1.1] in Latin. Glad that poem has been chosen, which he thinks the best in the book [The Bride of Dionysus]; Edward can do as he thinks best about the italicised 'that' in the last verse. Is here with [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson and [E.M] Forster; they went to the Taj [Mahal] last night, just after sunset, and found it much better than they expected, 'really one of the perfectly beautiful things in the world'. There are 'wonderful things in India, and the people are always a delight to watch', but so far it 'seems to be uglier than any country [Bob] has yet seen'; had not understood before how beautiful Italy was. However, the 'evening is more beautiful than in Europe, and transfigures even the Punjab'; Agra is better, with gardens and the river. They have been to Ajanta and seen the Buddhist frescoes which 'are first-rate' though in bad condition; the Hindu temples and sculptures are 'usually' ugly, but they have not seen the best yet. Will probably part company with Forster in a few weeks and go on to Benares and Calcutta, while he stays in this region; Forster will go to Calcutta later and home in spring, while Bob and Dickinson hope to reach Java in early March, perhaps travelling via Burma; Bob hopes to spend April in China then return home in May by rail. They met W[illiam] Archer recently, and hope to see him again tomorrow when they are going with him in a motor car to Fatehpur Sikri . Bob has 'had one native dinner, and was ill the next day with a temperature of 101 [Fahrenheit]'. They are going to stay with a Maharaja next week, '40 miles from any railway, who has a ruined town with twenty or thirty temples in it, one of them to the 64 female demons'; he [the Maharaja of Chhatarpur] is 'a great talker, and admirer of Herbert Spencer'; they hope he keeps elephants; Bob has seen none yet.
Monk's Walk Cottage, Much Marcle, Dymock, Gloucester. - Thanks Trevelyan for his criticism of his play "Deborah", on which he reflects and will use as guidance for alterations in several places, though he will largely let the work stand. Will not try to keep blank verse throughout his next play; liked Trevelyan's approach in "Parsifal" very much. Will send "Deborah" to Arche [sic: William Archer?], but it is probably an experiment which ought not to be acted. Is glad that Trevelyan has told [William?] Arnold Forster that the Abercrombies live near his camp; they hope to see him.
Grimsby Farm, Long Lane, Coldash, Newbury. - Hopes Trevy has received the letter he wrote to Naples, otherwise he will think Marsh 'rather a beast'. Glad Corpo di Cava was not snowed under, since it has turned out to be 'so delightful'; he himself would have 'preferred Capri for the sake of Tiberius' [see 15/318]. Has just got away from London and finished his first day of work here; his 'flesh crept to such a degree' when he woke on Monday night and started to think about his tripos [examinations] that it 'must have moved on about an inch all round'. Stayed in London a little longer than he should have done because of a 'superior French company' who performed [Ibsen's] "Rosmersholm" and "Master Builder" and a play by Maeterlinck under the direction of M. [Aurélien-François-Marie] Lugné -Poé who 'seems to be a descendant of Edgar Poe'. He is 'a very beautiful man with a pale face & black hair', and reminds Marsh of a 'portrait of some poet', perhaps Poe himself; he 'acts very respectably' and played the Master Builder as 'an American with a straggling beard & a drunken complexion' and 'quite revolutionized' Marsh's idea of the part, since 'the rather vulgar arrogant manner he put on in certain parts' made the character seem more consistent than 'the suavity of Lewis Waller'. Asks if Trevy has ever read Maeterlinck, as it is 'useless to try and explain what he's like' if not; in the 'mixture of great simplicity with an entire rejection of realism' he thinks it goes back to 'the Burne Jones & Morris kind of thing'. Sat next to William Archer, who was 'very nice' to him. Saw many friends at the Ibsen plays: [Erskine] Childers, Crompton [Llewelyn Davies], Gerald Duckworth, J[ohn] Waldegrave, 'the Babe' [William Haynes Smith?] etc. Thinks the Independent Theatre must be 'the worst managed concern in the world': the performances usually begin late 'after the curtain has gone up two or three times, to encourage the audience. You're never safe from the irruption of a cat in the most moving scenes', the actors miss their cues, or the curtain does not go down at the end of the act. The man who is called the Acting Manager [Charles Hoppe] is 'the greatest crook [he] ever met with in a responsible position', who seems unable to sell tickets without asking for assistance and did not even know how many acts there were in "Rosmersholm". Marsh took the Verralls to that play; comments on Arthur Verrall's reaction to theatre: 'he never is, or lays himself out to be, in the least moved by a play' but responds to 'the cleverness or stupidity with which it is written'.
Very glad that George [Trevelyan] got his scholarship, though there was no doubt he and Buxton would; 'very hard luck on [Ralph] Wedgwood. Went to see [Charles] Sanger yesterday in his new rooms at Hare Court. No-one has heard 'anything of [Bertrand] Russell for some time'. Only saw Oswald [Sickert], who had influenza, not serious, once; he has just got 'free from the Werner Company, which has used up the Beauties of Britain, & gone on to Paris [ie, finished publishing "Beautiful Britain]'; hopes he will have time for his novel now. [Maurice] Baring took Marsh to supper with Edmund Gosse on Sunday: a 'most amusing man', whose conversation is 'described in Stevenson's essay on conversation ["Talk and Talkers"] under the name of Purcell. He was in the teakettle mood'. Met [Henry] Harland, the editor of the "Yellow Book" there; thought him 'an awful little man', but 'on getting accustomed to his manner' next day he thought him 'like-able on the whole'. Hopes to go to supper next Sunday with 'the even more distinguished [Robert] Bridges', though he has not read his recent works so 'feels rather ill-equipped'. Met John Davidson briefly recently; he 'seemed a genial and light hearted little man, with a nice Scotch accent'.
Grimsby Farm, Long Lane, Coldash, Newbury. - Since, 'like Alice [in Wonderland]' he always takes 'a great interest in questions of eating and drinking', he is worried that Trevy is under-eating, unless risotto is 'very comprehensive and satisfying', like the dish described [in Aristophanes' "Ecclesiazusae/Assemblywomen" in a long compound word of which he quotes the beginning. Other than that Trevy seems to be having a 'perfect time', much better than he is himself. Wants very much to see Trevy's work; tells him to 'leave Paul as he is' [see 15/274] or just change the name so he will not recognise him; expects the book will be 'uncommon good'. Oswald [Sickert] nearly finished his book at Christmas, but did nothing more between then and Easter, as he was too busy with "Beautiful B[retain": published by the Werner Company]; he says a great deal work needs still to be done on it. [Stanley] Makower's book ["The Mirror of Music"] should be out soon after Easter. The 'great literary event' has been [Arthur] Verrall's "Euripides the Rationalist"; does not think he has ever read 'anything so clever'; will not say anything about it as it would spoil it, and it seems 'perfectly convincing'. Has been 'getting on very well with [Robert] Bridges': went with him to Oxford for a day last week; he seems 'the biggest man I've ever known anything of, perhaps equal with [William Gunion?] Rutherford'; cannot think of anyone else so 'thoroughly serious, thoroughly humorous, and thoroughly consistent', except perhaps Sickert who does not seem to be 'exactly "great" at present', though may be at forty. Bridges is bringing out an edition of Keats soon which will, for example see 'plain "Endymion" as an allegory". They went to the Bodleian, which is 'a delightful place'; Lady Shelley has recently given them 'a fine collection of Shelley MSS etc'. Roger [Fry] is coming to Yattendon soon after Easter, but unfortunately Marsh will have left by then. The 'great thing about Maeterlinck is the sound'; "L'Intruse" was a 'complete failure on the stage'; "Pelléas et Mélisande" 'delightful to listen to'; afraid the 'beautiful M. Lugné Poë' 'is gone for good, and won't come back, the theatre was so dreadfully empty' though the 'decent critics' were all in favour has not seen [William] Archer's articles, but Shaw 'praised the company highly' who has been in Fiesole, will soon go 'for a sail down the Adriatic', and return to England at the end of April. Asks if Trevy has seen the reports of Russell's brother [Frank]'s case; believes it will be settled on Tuesday week; thinks [Russell's wife] 'the Countess and her mother exposed themselves pretty fully'.
Heard from 'dear [Arthur] Shipley this morning, he's in solitary splendour at Cambridge'. Asks if Shipley is Trevy's 'idea of Horace', as he is Marsh's own, both physically and in character. Has also had a 'very gay letter from T. T. [Phelps?], furious' with Trevy for writing twice to Marsh and not to him. Has heard from 'the Seatollerites': George [Trevelyan] and [George] Moore both wrote last Sunday and the party seems to have been a success up to then. Has been 'working very hard' himself, but does not think he is getting on and worries about his Tripos [examinations]; the only reading he is doing apart from revision is de Quincey, of whom he is becoming 'very fond'. Thought the murder Trevy told him about at Wallington, '[William] Winter's murder [i.e., that committed by Winter]' was in "Murder as a Fine Art [de Quincey's "Murder Considered as one of the Fine Arts"]', but read that this morning and there is nothing about it there; asks where Trevy 'got all the details'.