Showing 3 results

Anuradhapura, Ceylon [Sri Lanka]. - Glad to have had three quiet days here after recent 'rushing about'. Will go to Kandy for four or five days tomorrow; they leave Colombo for Batavia on 15 or 16 February. [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson is staying for a couple of nights with an old friend between here and Kandy. Describes the ruins here, and sketches the dagobas [brick stupas] which are 'very ugly' in his opinion; the sculpture is 'conventional, and evidently made to order' but there are two reliefs of an elephant and man cut into a rock which he finds 'fine as can be'. Thinks Indian art 'disappointing on the whole', but when it does 'come off' as here, it rivals anything he has seen elsewhere. Ceylon is 'more beautiful than most of India', though they did like Travancore very much. They stayed there as 'state guests', though they only met the Maharajah, 'an amiable, conscientious, unhealthy-looking man', briefly. Mentions the night they spent at Cape Comorin, a trip into the jungle, and a 'fascinating journey by houseboat' from Trivandrum to Quilon. Travancore seems in many ways 'the best-governed native state in India', with the people 'more prosperous and better educated' than elsewhere, though they benefit from nature being 'bountiful' there. Much enjoyed their days in camp with Mr [ James Perch] Bedford, collector of Salem, before going to Travancore; their visits to Trichinopoly, Tanjore and Madura were interesting but 'very tiring'. Is glad to have good news from Bessie and his parents. Julian will have been at home for some time now; expects Sir George and Caroline will be at Welcombe. Hopes to be back in May to go to the Lake Hunt; will probably not go to Japan, but start home from Pekin [Beijing] towards the end of April. By then he will have 'seen as much of the world as [he] can reasonably want to see at one time' and will be ready to return.

Finishes the letter next day in the botanical gardens at Kandy, under a 'clump of giant bamboos' and next to a river in which he intends to bathe soon. His father would like Kandy. Has not yet seen Buddha's tooth, which they say is really a crocodile's. There were many crocodiles in the big tanks at Anuradhpura, which he did not know until he had bathed there; they saw one. There are none here in the hills. Expects he will write next from Singapore or Batavia.

Guest House, Trivandrum, Travancore. - Thinks his mother had now better send letters to him c/o Thomas Cooks at Shanghai, perhaps putting 'via Siberian Railway', which he believes is the quickest way; Robin [Price] used to have his letters to Formosa [Taiwan] addressed that way. They leave here tomorrow by canal boat for Quilon, take the train to Tuticorin then cross to Colombo, which they will reach on the morning of 5 February. They have had an interesting time here, but 'rather a full and tiring one'. The countryside is the most beautiful they have seen in India. On Friday they went by car thirty miles into the jungle, and yesterday they went to Cape Comorin, returning this morning; this is a 'fine place', a few miles south of the mountains, where the population are mostly Christian, converted by St Francis Xavier. There is a 'sort of matriarchate' here at Trivandrum, as the Navi [Nai] caste and most other except the Brahmins 'inherit through the women, who are far freer than in other parts of India, and better educated'. They called on the Maharajah [Moolam Thirunal], who was 'amiable, but rather dull'; the Dewan or chief minister [Sir Perungavur Rajagopalachari] is a 'clever and amusing man'. The country seems 'more prosperous' than other parts of India he has seen; life is 'very easy' and there are no famines; most people have some land where they grow plantains and a few coconut trees. Had meant to write to his father this time, but they have been 'so rushed about' he has not had time; hopes he will be able to in Ceylon. Is very well; Dickinson is too, though he gets tired very easily. Sees the [British] Government has 'got into trouble over the suffrage bill'; hopes this is the Speaker's fault rather than the Government's, but supposes there will be 'a lot of trouble anyhow'. Bessie and Julian seem very well; supposes Julian will be back at the Shiffolds by now; thanks his parents for having him for so long. Hopes to be back early in May; probably will not try to go to Japan. His mother said he would have had 'enough of travelling' in six or seven months, and he agrees he probably will. Has had a 'very good time in India', but it is tiring, and railway travel is 'horrible as a rule'.

Trivandrum. - Apologises for being unable to write earlier, due to a backlog of work built up during his absence. Hopes that Trevelyan and Dickinson had a good trip to Columbo, and that his brother met them at Tuticorin and looked after them.

On returning from Quilon, saw 'His Highness' [Moolam Thirunal, Maharaja of Travancore] , who was glad Trevelyan and DIckinson had enjoyed their visit; he was 'interested to hear about the bathes [Trevelyan] enjoyed, but he was concerned about you running the risk of of a chill' and that the water in that lake was brackish, but the writer reassured him on both points.

Is happy to say that he found his wife well on his return; the doctors and midwife had obviously been wrong about the date she was due to give birth, which by her reckoning is towards the middle of the month. She still has some swelling, however. Thanks Trevelyan and Dickinson for their 'kind concern & sympathy in the matter'.

Their visit was the first time he was 'deputed to look after state guest'; fears there 'must have been many shortcomings', but assures them that there was 'no want of desire to please'. They have been 'very good' to him, and he is grateful. Hopes their further travels 'will continue to be pleasant and enjoyable'.

Adds postscript: The Dewan [chief minister: Sir Perungavur Rajagopalachari] was also pleased to hear they had a good time; told him that they had promised to write to him