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Hotel de Paris, Benares. - Found his father's letter here when they arrived yesterday, after almost two weeks at Chhatapur as the guests of the Maharajah, a 'very charming and cultivated man'. Stayed longer than planned since [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson was unwell for a few days due to 'indifferent food'. Has been very interesting to observe the governance of a 'native state' which the Maharajah left entirely to the Diwan or chief minister, a Brahmin and a 'very enlightened and able man' who is engaged in reform; they befriended him and the rajah's private secretary who was also chief judge, 'a Moslem and a very fine type, from the Punjab' [M. Fazal i Haq?]. Unlike the Punjabi Muslims he had met, he wishes there could be friendship between Muslims and Hindus and believes it would be possible if both sides made 'certain concessions'.

They made several expeditions to see temples and palaces while there, and found the countryside more beautiful than anything else they have seen since leaving Bombay, so it perhaps does not matter that they did not as first planned go to Jaipur and Udaipur. Tomorrow they will 'go to see the pilgrims bathing and praying on the Ghats'; [originally] enclosing a photograph of one of the main ghats; the ruined palace in the foreground collapsed about twenty years ago; thinks the other photograph looks 'Italian'. Expects his father saw Benares when he was in India. They will probably go to Goya for two nights on 18 December, then on to Calcutta for a couple of weeks or more before going south to Madras; they may pay a short visit to Darjeeling. They have now given up the plan of going to Burma, for which there is not sufficient time. Bessie seems to have been happy in the Netherlands; expects she will have fetched Julian from Wallington by now; very glad to have had 'such good accounts of him' from her and his parents. Is writing with a champak [flower] bud on his table, whose 'odour perfades [sic] the room, and is worthy of its lyrical fame'.

Chhatarpur, Bundlekhand, C. I. - Thanks Trevelyan for his letter of 6 February; is 'greatly flattered' by the memories [of Trevelyan's visit with Lowes Dickinson and E. M. Forster in 1913] which it brings back 'with their original charm and sweetness', though he wonders whether it would be possible to relive that time. Glad that Trevelyan has 'introduced into English Poetry those scenes wh[ich] are dearly cherished in every Hindu heart' [a reference to Trevelyan's verse drama about Krishna, "The Pearl Tree"?]; if he ever comes again to India the Maharaja will have the play translated into Hindi and acted for him. Read Dickinson's "Magic Flute" with 'unabated interest': thinks it very characteristic of Dickinson, and well depicting 'the modern idea of truth', while Dickinson's 'pacifist views have come in very appropriately in that Drama'. Trevelyan's letter hinted that Forster intended to return to India, and the Maharaja 'naturally thought' he would come to him: he counts 'you people to be of my dear Tutor Sir Theodore [Morison]'s circle'. However, he learns with 'great surprise' that Forster has accepted a position at Dewas; does 'not know how he got there!'. Sure that Trevelyan, if Forster had consulted him, would have advised him to come to Chhatarpur; the Maharaja wanted Forster to 'correct the mistake' and come to be his 'companion', but he has refused. The Maharaja is 'greatly in need of a loyal [emphasised] & sympathetic companion of literary tastes - & practical experience of the World' but does 'not know how to find one!'.

Asks where 'our friend' Bertrand Russell is: his Christmas card was returned. Asks if Trevelyan ever sees Theodore Morison, or his friend T[homas] W[alker] Arnold; asks what Arnold's address is nowadays. Mr Haq is still at Chhatarpur, but Mr Mina has 'reverted to his British India service' and is working in an U[ttar] P[radesh?] D district. Received Trevelyan's Christmas card with the 'nice & promising attempt of the young Painter [Julian]'; hopes he will be like his father.

Chhatarpur. - Thanks Trevelyan for his 'kind letter of the 10th'; it is only because of Trevelyan's own 'kind nature and good-heartedness' that he makes 'so much of what little I did'. In turn, thanks Trevelyan for the present of his brother [George]'s Garibaldi and the Thousand.

Very glad to hear that Dickinson is now 'quite fit to go on with his long & distant journey'. Their best wishes go with both Trevelyan and Dickinson, and Forster, and they all hope they will 'fully enjoy' their travels. 'You know that H. H. [the Maharaja] likes & loves nothing better in the world than the society of cultured English gentlemen. I can say that from my personal experiences of the last 19 years that I have been with him. He missed your company very much - in fact he was very much depressed after you left'. It was not until 'long after that the loneliness & monotony of his life was somewhat relieved by a visit from Miss Cohen and her brother' but they could only stay a couple of days and left for Gwalior. Showed Trevelyan's letter to the Maharaja, who 'was very much impressed with what you said therein about your visit to Chhatarpur & the hospitality of its ruler'; the Maharaja has received Trevelyan's letter to him 'from the jungles of Salim' and will reply soon. He 'read it and re-read it in my presence and was much impressed. He was also very glad to hear that you met Sir Theodore [Morison], whom he he is going to see at Patna or Lucknow'. The 'Hon. A. G. G. [Assistant Governor General?] is due at Chhatarpur om his official tour about 20 Feb., and the Maharaja cannot fix a definite date [to see Morison] until that tour is over.

Is glad to hear that Nanhu Mal was useful to them at Benares. Notes that Bob finds 'the Persian alphabet very troublesome', but thinks if he takes it seriously he 'won't find it so unmanageable in the long run': hopes he will 'soon get over the difficulty' so that soon Haq will 'have the pleasure to correspond with you in Persian language & quote Persian poets'. Had a 'very kind letter from Mr Forster' recently, who seems to have 'very pleasant recollections' of his visit to Chhatarpur'.

Yesterday was a public holiday [] and the Maharaja 'held a dunbar last night to offer thanks to the Almighty on this happy occasion'. The Maharaja has 'entered into a singular correspondence with Dr. Carpenter [perhaps Edward Carpenter?] & has received many of his books of late'; has also had Dickinson and Forster's books 'direct from England' and is 'much interested in all these books': Haq always finds him with one in his hand. The Diwan told Haq recently that he had received [Trevelyan's father's] Life of Macaulay from Trevelyan.

Wonders if Trevelyan [and his friends?] 'can induce H. H. to visit England - It is sure to do him much good from every point of view'; he himself is 'only his servant & my solicitations in this respect can therefore be of very little avail'.

Asks to be remembered to Mr Dickinson.