Stuk 18 - Letter from R. C. Trevelyan to Caroline Trevelyan

1 item

Guest House, Trivandrum, Travancore. - Thinks his mother had now better send letters to him c/o Thomas Cooks at Shanghai, perhaps putting 'via Siberian Railway', which he believes is the quickest way; Robin [Price] used to have his letters to Formosa [Taiwan] addressed that way. They leave here tomorrow by canal boat for Quilon, take the train to Tuticorin then cross to Colombo, which they will reach on the morning of 5 February. They have had an interesting time here, but 'rather a full and tiring one'. The countryside is the most beautiful they have seen in India. On Friday they went by car thirty miles into the jungle, and yesterday they went to Cape Comorin, returning this morning; this is a 'fine place', a few miles south of the mountains, where the population are mostly Christian, converted by St Francis Xavier. There is a 'sort of matriarchate' here at Trivandrum, as the Navi [Nai] caste and most other except the Brahmins 'inherit through the women, who are far freer than in other parts of India, and better educated'. They called on the Maharajah [Moolam Thirunal], who was 'amiable, but rather dull'; the Dewan or chief minister [Sir Perungavur Rajagopalachari] is a 'clever and amusing man'. The country seems 'more prosperous' than other parts of India he has seen; life is 'very easy' and there are no famines; most people have some land where they grow plantains and a few coconut trees. Had meant to write to his father this time, but they have been 'so rushed about' he has not had time; hopes he will be able to in Ceylon. Is very well; Dickinson is too, though he gets tired very easily. Sees the [British] Government has 'got into trouble over the suffrage bill'; hopes this is the Speaker's fault rather than the Government's, but supposes there will be 'a lot of trouble anyhow'. Bessie and Julian seem very well; supposes Julian will be back at the Shiffolds by now; thanks his parents for having him for so long. Hopes to be back early in May; probably will not try to go to Japan. His mother said he would have had 'enough of travelling' in six or seven months, and he agrees he probably will. Has had a 'very good time in India', but it is tiring, and railway travel is 'horrible as a rule'.