Stuk 9 - Letter from R. C. Trevelyan to Caroline Trevelyan

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Lahore. - Sent a post card last week before catching the train to Peshawar 'in a hurry' since the doctor had said he had German measles and could not travel, before changing his mind at the last moment; only had 'a slight feverishness one evening and a light rash that soon went'. He has otherwise been very well, as has [Goldsworthy Lowes] Dickinson. Glad to hear that all is well with his parents at Wallington; Bessie has written 'cheerfully', the Bottomleys [Gordon and Emily] had not yet arrived. Has been having a very interesting time here and at Peshawar; the Kaiber [sic: Khyber] Pass was worth the journey to see; they watched a 'caravan of several thousand Afghans with hundreds of camels and donkeys and buffaloes' for hours; they were 'fine looking men, though very dirty'. Has found India an 'ugly country' so far, except for Bombay harbour, particularly the Punjab; the hills are 'often impressive, but not beautiful, as in Italy'. The people however are 'always interesting' and there is much to see. Dined last night with 'some Mohammedans, a famous lawyer, and a famous poet called Ikdal [perhaps Muhammad Iqbal?], and several others' who were 'very pleasant and cultivated'; the poet was 'quite a wit'. The lawyer 'held forth on the wickedness of the Hindoos, and one might think it was an Orangeman abusing the Catholics', though Robert expects the Hindus are as intolerant as the Muslims, and the lawyer was 'no doubt carried away somewhat by his eloquence' and probably not as 'bigotted' as he seemed; the poet and some of the others seemed more moderate than the lawyer, who was 'quite the [Edward] Carson type, though a nice man.'

They are going tonight to Delhi, and will stay there and at Agra a fortnight, before touring in Rajputana; they hope to be at Benares before Christmas. Has been staying with his 'old Harrow friend [Alexander] Stow, who has been 'very hospitable', but expects they will now be in hotels for some time. Glad Julian is 'so well', and that the ceremony at Stratford [marking Sir George Trevelyan's appointment as High Steward of the borough?] was so successful; will write to his father by this mail if possible. Hears the British government has been defeated, and hopes they will not 'have to go out'. Very glad to get his "Manchester Guardians" every week. The Muslims here are 'much upset about Turkey', but he does not think it will cause much ill-feeling against the British.