Item 86 - Letter from R. C. Trevelyan to Elizabeth des Amorie van der Hoeven

Hotel Biscione, Piazza Fontana, Milano. - Bessie will have received his letter apologising for not writing on his arrival. Has had a 'wonderful' day, seeing several churches, Leonardo's "Last Supper", then the castle which has only recently been opened and was new to [the Frys]; it is 'the most overwhelming building' in Italy, at least in size and often in beauty; much of it is by Bramante and there are fine sculptures and remnants of frescos to be seen; helps one see why Leonardo came to Milan, which otherwise seems 'rather a dull place'. They then went to a private collection of good pictures in 'splendid condition', cleaned by Cavenaghi; is now convinced he likes Italian art most of all, though he does like some Dutch painters; feels modern art 'scarcely exists at all'. Will see 'the more celebrated things' at the Brera tomorrow. Now feels that Luini is 'very third rate', and a 'watered down' Leonardo. Staying in Milan till the Frys go on Monday or Tuesday. She [Helen Fry] has not been well, except at Siena, but he has had a good time with them, and talked to them a lot about Bessie; if Bessie comes to England in the spring, as he hopes she will, the Frys want her to spend a few days at Dorking with them, from which she could see the Mill House. They will not be able to come to Holland on the way back; they have a fixed date to return by and 'she is not really well enough for visiting'. Confesses that he likes Italy more than northern countries, at least at this time of year. Will write to her aunt tomorrow. Has had a letter from his aunt [Viscountess] Knutsford and from [Frank?] Dugdale, which are pleasant but not worth quoting.