Item 107 - Letter from R. C. Trevelyan to Sir George Trevelyan

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Hotel Cecil, Agra - This is their second day here; will go on to Gwalior on Monday. Had a 'very interesting 5 days at Delhi', and spent a night at Muttra [Mathura], which was the most 'purely Indian' town they have yet seen, on the way; it is 'full of monkeys, and Brahmins bathing in the river, and 'no sign of English anywhere' though there are several regiments stationed nearby. The river and ghats are 'very beautiful'; though they saw 'no fine temples' there, there was a famous old Hindu temple, sacred to Krishna, at nearby Brindaban [Vrindavan], which was the finest he has yet seen. They are having a very pleasant time here; they saw the Taj [Mahal] in the moonlight yesterday, which was more beautiful than he could imagine. Today they saw the buildings in the fort; the Pearl mosque is a 'masterpiece', but the others 'rather disappointing in detail', though the 'general effect is marvellous'. They will visit Fatehpore Sikri at the weekend with William Archer, and [Arthur] Moore, the "Times" correspondent in Persia, whom they have made friends with here. Moore is a liberal, and writes 'telegrams on Persian affairs from the Persian constitutionalist point of view that the "Times" prints and 'then write leading-articles to explain away'. Saw I'timad-ud-Daulah [Ghiyas Beg]'s tomb this afternoon, which is 'a most exquisite building'; [originally] enclosing a photograph of an interior chamber, as well as a view of the Taj. Cannot remember whether his father has been to Agra. After Gwalior, they hope to go to Chhatapur as the guest of the Maharaja, then to Benares, Patna, and should be at Calcutta by Christmas. [He and Dickinson] have not yet decided whether they have time to go to Burma; Forster is with them now, but will leave them at Chhatapur. They cannot go to Jaipur as there is a bad outbreak of plague there, so have 'reluctantly decided' to miss Udaipur and Rajputana completely. Has been keeping well, except for a slight touch of fever at Lahore which the doctor 'stupidly mistook for German measles'; Dickinson is also well. Very glad the ceremony at Stratford 'went off so pleasantly'; returns the cutting of the speech made by his father; if he has another copy, he could send this to Bessie to keep. Has had 'very cheerful letters from her', and expects she is now back from the Netherlands; glad that Julian is 'so well and happy', and hopes he will not 'become too noisy'.